The British fashion house staged their first 'see now buy now' show, in line with the biggest trend in the industry: giving power to consumers, and letting them be heard. Inspired by Virginia Woolf's Orlando, a tale of a poet who switches genders throughout centuries, it was a stylish nod to the newfound gender fluidity. There were Elizabethan-inspired elements, think ruffled sleeves, combined with modern it-items that will sell out immediately. We loved the bell-sleeved shearling jacket and the military coats.
If Christopher Kane’s show makes you feel uneasy, not to worry, that’s the point. The clothes we saw mixed something from the old and the new. While the title of the collection is Make do and Mend, the name of a 1940s British government pamphlet of how-to tips for women about adapting their clothes to last longer in times of rationing, the collection was aimed at young it-girls. It’s the alchemy that we love: slit pencil skirts, leather coats with broderie anglaise details, and liquid metallic lamé dresses.
Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
Witches were the inspiration for Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi, but in a Preen-like fashion, this collided with elements of goth. The result? Creative magic. There were glitter skirts combined with them most delicate chiffon tops; a velvet dress of crushed rainbow pattern; pentagram symbols. We want it all.
Erdem Moralioglu knows that a woman's love for a floral dress has no bounds, and plays on that precisely and successfully. To call his pieces simply 'floral dresses' is an understatement, though, since they hold such a myriad of intricacies and symbolisms, you could get caught into a spiral of research trying to chase his references down. This time, it's a news story about how divers in the North Sea discovered the drowned wardrobe of a lady-in-waiting for the wife of Charles I of England.
J. W. Anderson
Jonathan Anderson's shows have become the centrepiece of LFW. His mercurial mind goes through obscure references at an incredible speed. At times, it's difficult to grasp, but for spring/summer the collection took a slower pace. Henry the Eighth's slashes sleeves were a starting point, but we loved the summer fit-and-flare dresses, and the slouchy bags.